House Bunting, Marrakech
Spotless Starling, Marrakech
House Bunting, Marrakech
House Buntings are endemic to North Africa, but it seems rather bizarre that they have not spread further as they are found in all habitats in large numbers in this region. Equally common in Marrakech are Collared Doves, House Sparrows and Feral Pigeons. There is also a resident breeding population of White Storks in the city, however we sadly did not have time to go and see them on this occasion. Later in the morning, we headed towards Essaouira, where we would stay for the next three nights. On the way, I saw a decent number of White Storks, as well as Southern Grey Shrikes, my first Goldfinches in Africa and many other species. One of those species was Trumpeter Finch- a first for me.
Our hotel was just south of Essaouira, at what turned out to be a very popular destination for surfers. The birding here was absolutely excellent, with two new species for me- Thekla Lark and the resplendent and near-endemic to Morocco Moussier's Redstart- seen on the first afternoon.
Moussier's Redstarts, Sidi Kaouki. This is the male- the female looks very much like a duller-coloured female Common Redstart
The fields behind our hotel swarmed with birds- the remarkably distinctive African Chaffinch, Goldfinches, Greenfinches, Serins, Black Redstarts, Stonechats, African Blue Tits and Cirl Buntings all being regularly seen among many common British species.
Cirl Bunting, Sidi Kaouki. This species was once common across southern England, but is now restriced to small patches of the Devon coastline. Thankfully, it is still common in Morocco.
One very pleasant surprise was finding a Turtle-Dove among the numerous Collared Doves. This species rarely winters in coastal Morocco, and this bird was certainly alone. Again, it is another species that has declined in Britain, with a 91% drop in numbers recorded in the last decade- largely caused by merciless shooting of the bird as it migrates over the Mediterranean in Spring and Autumn.
Turtle-Dove, Sidi Kaouki
The best species we found in these fields was Little Owl- my first in Africa. Two of these stunning birds were seen every day sitting in their favourite place on a stone wall.
Little Owl, Sidi Kaouki
Other species seen in the fields include Linnet, Cattle Egret, Kestrel, Thekla and Crested Larks, numerous Moussier's Redstart and Sardinian Warbler.
Sardinian Warbler, Sidi Kaouki
The beach at Sidi Kaouki turned out to be a good site for bird-watching as well, with Whimbrels; Grey, Ringed and Kentish Plovers; Turnstones and Sanderlings all common, along with an abundance of Lesser Black-backed Gulls, Little Egrets and on one day an Osprey. Moroccan Cormorants were also seen. Just behind the beach, we found a very unexpected wintering Common Redstart.
The garden of the hotel contained many Chiffchaffs, a Blackcap, Robins and several very confiding Southern Grey Shrikes.
Southern Grey Shrikes, Sidi Kaouki
On one day, we visited the fishing town of Essaouira. The town is famous for its fish markets and fishing fleet, which attract an immensely large number of gulls. The majority were Lesser Black-backed Gulls, but among them were several Black-headed and Yellow-legged Gulls. Then, as I was walking along the edge of the port, I found this:
First winter Glaucous Gull, Essaouira (second from the right)- note the white wing tips and pale back colouration.
A Glaucous Gull! This is an extraordinarily rare vagrant to Morocco- from the Arctic. Its most southerly breeding grounds are in Iceland and in winter it very rarely travels as far south as Dorset in winter (let alone Morocco!). This species had been on my radar, after thinking of going to see one at West Bexington in Dorset the week before. I certainly did not expect to see my first of this truly Arctic species in Africa, but was over the moon at having found it.
Near the estuary at Essaouira, I found my first Brown-throated Martins north of the Sahara (this species is abundant in sub-Saharan Africa, but is restricted to Morocco north of it).
A sleeping Cattle Egret at Sidi Kaouki about to be rudely woken up by a camel. The camel walked up to the egret and pushed it with its nose.
A rather dopey donkey with the 'town' of Sidi Kaouki in the background. I wouldn't be surprised if the entire area in the picture is transformed into a number of hotels in the near future. Certainly the great beach and proximity to Essaouira and Marrakech gives it the potential to become a major tourist destination. Thankfully, for now, there are still very few visitors.
Chameleons were very common in the garden of our hotel. We found this one next to our breakfast table.
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