South of France- 10th August-30 September

On the 10th August, we drove from Dorset to a small house near Uzes in the south of France. It took close to 20 hours, but it certainly felt worth it once we had arrived!

I shall cover the trip site by site, as three weeks of day by day coverage would be rather tedious!

We stayed in a converted farm building in a minute hamlet called Mas de l'Aveugle (Hamlet of the Blind Man). The birding around the area was exceptional, with a great mix of farmland, vineyards and forest. Colourful southern European specialties such as bee-eaters and hoopoes were very common around the area, as was the globally threatened European roller (a group of 14 was seen on one day) and golden orioles. The latter two species are shot in large numbers as they migrate over the Mediterranean- rollers for food and golden orioles rather disturbingly to be used as an aphrodisiac, but thankfully both seemed to be thriving here (for now).

European Bee-eaters, Mas de l'Aveugle

Smaller southern European specialties around the area included melodious, subalpine (a lifer for me) and Dartford warblers, as well as cirl bunting (now sadly restricted to a small stretch of south Devon coast in Britain), pied flycatcher (another first for me), tawny pipit (also a lifer) and black redstarts, the flycatcher and black redstart being particularly abundant. Shrikes were common, particularly woodchat, but two red-backed shrikes and an Iberian grey shrike were also seen.

Juvenile Red-backed Shrike (top) and House Sparrow, Mas de l'Aveugle

Another feature of the area was the remarkable abundance of raptors. Besides sightings of more common British species such as common buzzard, sparrowhawk and kestrel, were scarcer ones such as hobbies, peregrines and a red kite. Honey-buzzards were seen regularly, presumably migrating south, including a group of 14. Short-toed eagles were seen daily, their enormous size apparent when one was being mobbed by a honey-buzzard (something one can only dream of seeing in England!). Much more unexpected was a goshawk that headed low over the house, but my personal favourite was a male hen harrier seen gliding over the nearby fields. On the edge of extinction in England, due to persecution from gamekeepers, this bird made a magnificent sight, one that has become exceedingly rare back home. Other species facing a similarly bleak future in Britain that were regularly seen included quail and turtle dove.

One of the benefits of travelling in August was to have the chance to witness the passerine migration. Around the area, regular British migrants such as willow warblers, chiffchaffs, several common and one lesser whitethroat and one garden warbler were all seen, as were northern wheatears and a single (flyover) yellow wagtail. Many of the pied flycatchers seen would have been migrants, as presumably was a single female common redstart (a male was seen in a nearby village) seen on two days. A nightingale seen in the same tree also provided a great treat.

Female Common Redstart, Mas de l'Aveugle

Unsurprisingly, hirundines (barn swallows and house martins) were abundant, but a single crag martin seen on one day was more of a surprise. Swifts were more scarce, with only four seen. Far more unexpected were two scarcer passage migrants, both seen in the garden, and both generally choosing a more easterly route to their wintering grounds. The first was a female red-breasted flycatcher, which at first I thought to be a pied flycatcher, before it revealed a wing lacking in any white. A rather strange mix of flycatcher and warbler, choosing to winter in India, this was a new species for me, and certainly not one I could have predicted seeing. Nor was an icterine warbler seen a few days later. This species, the more easterly counterpart of the melodious warbler probably passes through this region in decent numbers, however it is extremely difficult to separate from the melodious. I thought the bird was worth inspecting after I caught sight of its black legs- usually a melodious has pink legs, but they can be much darker, so this is not a reliable source of identification! More key an identification feature were its long primary feathers extending far beyond the base of the tail, as well as its overall sense of appearing less plump and kindly-looking. This was another lifer for me.

Just about a record shot of the Icterine Warbler, Mas de l'Aveugle. Note the long primary feathers.

Very pleasingly, on my last day there, I found another lifer, possibly present as a passage migrant, though in potentially decent breeding habitat. It was a marsh warbler, almost inseparable by sight from a reed warbler, and barely separable by voice, though with the help of my Collins guide, I successfully managed to identify it, based on its less rufous back and extremely skulking nature. Five of them were present together in a roadside ditch. 

More exciting, for me, was the presence of calling European scops owls in the garden. On one night, I finally managed to see them, with two birds seen on four occasions. A tawny owl was heard calling on one night, but unfortunately not seen.

Sound recording of calling Scops Owl, Mas de l'Aveugle

Other birds seen around the area included red-legged partridge, stonechat, corn bunting, jay, raven and both green and great spotted woodpecker and in a nearby village, tree sparrows, a species on the edge of extinction in Britain, and seemingly rather scarce here as well.

Sun setting over Mas de l'Aveugle

The Camargue

Unfortunately we were only able to visit the Camargue on only one occasion on this trip, though it was a superb day. It started as well as it possibly could have done, with a magnificent adult male red-footed falcon seen extremely close, perched on a roadside wire near Le Sambuc in the Camargue. My visions of taking a photograph of this bird were sadly denied when a van of fireman shot past, forcing the bird to fly off. It was an extremely luck encounter, not only because the bird is a scarce passage migrant to region from its breeding grounds in eastern Europe on its way to sub-Saharan Africa, but because we were only travelling down that part of the road because we had missed our turning five minutes earlier! It was a new species for me, and undoubtedly the bird of the trip, one that I shall never forget. Nearby were several crested larks and green sandpipers.

Still trying to get over our excitement, we traveled to the Etang du Fangassier, home to the Camargue's main breeding population of flamingoes. On the way, we stopped off at a platform raised above some reedbeds, where I saw my first zitting cisticola since I saw one in South Africa in 2006! At the Etang, waders were plentiful, particularly ringed, little ringed and plovers, dunlin and little stints. Also present were several common, green and curlew sandpipers, curlews and avocets, and another new species for me- a single Temminck's stint. The bizarre yet truly resplendent greater flamingoes were abundant on the Etang, with at least 100 seen. Mediterranean and yellow-legged gulls were seemingly everywhere, however I failed to find one of my target species- the slender-billed gull, despite much searching. Other birds seen included yellow wagtail and a shelduck, but most exciting was a ringtail Montagu's harrier hunting in the distance.

Next we traveled to La Capeliere on the Etang du Vaccares, the largest etang of the Camargue. There were huge numbers of black-necked grebes floating on this vast, yet very shallow, inland sea, with at least 200 birds present. A female garganey was also seen, as were dozens of black-winged stilts, wandering around the shallows on their absurdly long red legs. Here, more flamingos were present, but far too distantly so for photography. A flock of white storks was seen feeding in a roadside field nearby.

We then went to Salin des Badons, a reserve that one has to pay for the privilege to enter. It was certainly worth it, with the first hide being remarkably productive. Spoonbills; great white, cattle and little egrets and grey, black-crowned night, squacco and purple herons fed on the lagoon, alongside dozens of waders, including up to 30 wood sandpipers, several green and common sandpipers, greenshanks, redshanks, snipe and black-winged stilts. It was my first sighting of squacco herons since seeing dozens in Botswana's Okavango Delta, the best place imaginable for herons!

Squacco Heron, Salin des Badons

Great White Egret, Salin des Badons

Heavily cropped image of Spoonbill, Salin des Badons

More exciting was the presence of five black storks, two of which were relatively close (but sleeping) and the other three were too far away for photography, but predictably awake, so showing off their brilliantly bright red bill. Again, this is a scarce passage migrant in the Camargue, and a truly stunning bird. Continuing the trend of first birds seen since Africa in 2006, these were my first of this species since a single bird at Lamu in Kenya in the same year.

Black Storks, Salin des Badons

Aggravatingly, I was unable to continue that trend as I failed to spot a collared pratincole hawking for insects that my father saw (my only sighting of this bizarre mix between a wader and a swallow was a single bird at Tanzania's Lake Tarangire in 2006). Smaller birds included Cetti's, reed and Sardinian warblers and zitting cisticola and a single red-crested pochard was also present. Unfortunately I could not find any great reed, spectacled or Savi's warblers which inhabit the area and would have all been lifers. 

We then traveled to the paddyfields at Mas d'Agon, reputedly a superb area for herons and terns. On the way, we passed this roadside squacco heron.

Squacco Heron, near Salin des Badons

At Mas d'Agon, we quickly found both gull-billed and whiskered terns (again species not seen since 2006 in Africa!), as well as sandwich and common terns. Sadly no black terns were present, so I missed the chance of another lifer. The number of herons present was outstanding, with glossy ibis present in great numbers alongside large numbers of the three egret species; squacco, black-crowned night, grey and purple herons (whose numbers were particularly remarkable). A marsh harrier was seen very well, gliding over the paddyfields, and a tree sparrow was a nice addition, alongside reed warblers and dozens of black-winged stilts.

Our next destination was supposed to Etang du Scamandre, in the Petit Camargue, home of a large heron roost that would have guaranteed little and great bitterns among the species already seen that day, but much to our surprise it turned out to be closed on weekends (surely when everyone would be visiting a nature reserve?). The reeds around that area are supposed to hold good numbers of moustached and Savi's warblers, though sadly we saw none. We decided to continue to Pont des Tourradons, home of the purple gallinule. On the way, we saw a roadside roller and a stunning male Montagu's harrier. Predictably, on a day of missing specialties, but finding superb scarcities, we failed to find the far larger and more colourful cousin of our coots and moorhens, though good numbers of glossy ibises and the other heron species, as well as wood sandpipers and black-winged stilts was some compensation. Five road-killed coypu created a stench, but also a strong suspicion that some locals weren't too keen on this invasive South American species, the largest rodent in the world.

On another day we visited the Parc Ornothologique du Pont de Gau, and were impressed by the range of birds present. Here, they care for injured birds and their offspring, including Egyptian vultures and eagle owls. Something about the Parc gave a sense that the birds were not genuinely wild (they were wild, but extremely tame and seemingly uncaring about human presence), and huge crowds of visitors swarmed the area. Not all was bad though, with black-crowned night herons and flamingos seen superbly well, as well as a new mammal for me, two beavers.

Greater Flamingos at extremely close range, Parc Ornothologique du Pont de Gau

Record shot of beaver, Parc Ornothologique du Pont de Gau

Mont Ventoux

Having read reports of previous trips to the area, I felt that a visit to Mont Ventoux was a necessity. This mountain, the most westerly outcrop of the Alps, reaches over 6000 feet in altitude, and as a result attracts some different species. Again, the outing started well, with the first birds seen being a lifer- a pair of crested tits feeding in the pines near a layby. Further up the mountain, we came to a beautiful alpine meadow. Here, we found black redstarts and white wagtails to be abundant, alongside wheatears (bizarrely described as being a passerine fort gouteur- strongly tasty- on a sign in the area!). Pied flycatchers and tree pipits were (quite literally) everywhere, and a robin turned out to be the only one of the trip! Mistle thrushes, spotted flycatchers, coal tits and chaffinches gave a reminder of Dorset (not necessarily a reminder I needed!). A single serin and a common redstart were seen there, and overhead dozens of alpine swifts and crag martins circled. A pair of honey-buzzards made a magnificent sight, as they called to each other at eye-level to us. A goshawk passing over was a great surprise. Best of all, however, was another new bird for me. While looking at a wheatear perched on a rock, I caught sight of a falcon gliding behind it in the distance. It struck me as having a particularly long tail and thin wings, and having managed to get my telescope onto it, I managed to confirm its identity as an Eleonora's falcon, yet another scarce passage migrant seen on this trip. It is one of the most desired species to see in Europe, breeding on the Mediterranean islands, and migrating to Madagascar in the winter. Seeing it here was most unexpected, but nevertheless exceedingly pleasing. It was, of course, yet another new species for me. We then continued to the summit, passing literally hundreds of cyclists, challenging themselves on what is famously the most tough stage of the Tour de France.

The bizarre, lunar-like landscape at the summit of Mont Ventoux

The breathtaking view from the summit.

On the way down, we stopped for lunch at Le Chalet Reynard (it was a delicious lunch by the way!). The surrounding area is famously good for citril finches and snowfinches, though we found neither, and I think winter may be a far better time for finding them. We did, however, find some great birds, particularly a pair of rufous-tailed rock thrushes (only my second sighting of this species) and a rock bunting (again my second sighting, after seeing it in Morocco in January). The supporting cast consisted of good numbers of serin, several redstarts (of both varieties), and both species of whitethroat. Overhead, a flock of alpine choughs passed.

What was shaping up to be a great afternoon was rudely interrupted when the black smoke began pouring out the the brakes halfway down Mont Ventoux. We stopped, and after eventually getting through to our insurance, a mechanic was sent to come and help us. A three hour wait ensued, during which time, the only birds seen were a pair of firecrests. Eventually the mechanic came, and having inspected our brakes with a torch, told us that it was 'ok' and that it happened to people with automatic cars everyday due to excessive braking. We continued home, eventually arriving six and a half hours after we left (it had taken a little over an hour to get there!).

La Crau

Possibly my favourite destination of the trip, this threatened area of steppe-like habitat, France's only desert, contains several specialities, particularly the little bustard, but also pin-tailed sandgrouse and four shrike species among many others. 

Having read many reports about where to find species (most over ten years old!) we felt prepared to explore this barren area, threatened by industrialiasation and an increasing military presence in highly suitable habitat for training. We started at Eyguieres Airstrip at the eastern end of La Crau, easily accessed just south of the town bearing the same name. The site was recommended as a little bustard hotspot, so we were very keen to visit. For anyone visiting, continue past the main airport hangars and other buildings, until you reach a sign saying no entry. At this point, turn left and continue until another no entry sign, right next to the airstrip itself. It was from here that I spotted our target species for the entire trip- not one, not two, but five little bustards! This fantastic pheasant-sized bird was a great lifer, one that I have always wanted to see. The birds were too skulking for a photo, but gave great (if rather brief) views as they fed on the grass runway itself. This site also contained several wheatears, whinchat and tawny pipits. I would recommend it to anyone visiting the area h

oping to find the bustards, and sandgrouse are reportedly regular here as well, though we didn't see any.

We then continued, very much content, towards Terme Blanc, a notorious site for passage migrant dotterel, and with a habit of attracting vagrants such as creme-coloured courser. On the way, five black swans were seen on a roadside lake near Saint Martin de Crau, presumably escapes that have started breeding. Further on, a ringtail Montagu's harrier was seen superbly from a roadside layby, hunting over the vast fields.

Based on recommendations, we stopped on the right of the southbound road, the N568, which cuts across the Reserve Naturelle des Coussoulls de Crau, near a sign for the Retour des Aires and an old private property sign. We parked in front of the gate which enters the area, next to some abandoned farm houses. It was on the rather spooky abandoned edifices that several lesser kestrels had taken up residence, allowing superb views from the car. Their style of flight differed hugely from that of the common kestrel, in fact more like that of a hobby catching insects. This species was another one of our targets, and a superb species to see. We then had to cross the N568, as directly opposite it was Terme Blanc. Passing what is seemingly the only inhabited house in La Crau, you pass up a dirt track for several kilometres, heading towards the abandoned farmhouse in the centre of this enormous plain.

The barren plain at Terme Blanc, La Crau

Much of the area consists of grass that is slightly too long for many of the desert species, but wheatears and tawny pipits were seen everywhere. 

Abandoned farm at Terme Blanc, La Crau

That all changes around the abandoned farm, where the terrain becomes more pebbly and steppe-like. Around here we found large numbers of tawny pipits, wheatears, short-toed larks and a new species for me- a calandra lark. Kestrels of both species were abundant, and a single peregrine was seen. Sensing this was our best opportunity to find dotterels as the terrain was far more suitable for them, we waited. It did feel like searching for some tiny needles in a vast haystack. Our patience was, remarkably rewarded, as a group of dotterels appeared suddenly behind the car. It was another new species for me, one that breeds in the Arctic and winters mainly in North Africa. About 25 were present, most still in summer plumage. Unfortunately heat haze made photography extremely difficult, despite how close they were to our car.We watched them scurrying about the ground for about an hour, before heading home having had an excellent day.

Dotterel, Terme Blanc, La Crau

Other sites

Pont du Gard and Gardon River- an excellent site for alpine swifts and crag martins, as well as raptors. Single ospreys were seen on two occasions gliding over the river, as a was a booted eagle. Sadly I could not find any of the rock sparrows which breed on the Roman Aqueduct itself, but black redstarts were numerous. In the forest surrounding the Pont du Gard, spotted and pied flycatchers were numerous, as were common redstarts and firecrests. Western Bonelli's warblers were also present, and this species was a new one for me, though it is completely identical to the eastern variety I saw at Petra in Jordan last year in all ways, other than its call. On one day, we kayaked down the Gard, and under the Pont du Gard itself. It was a great experience, and while doing so, I saw six kingfishers, a very close turtle dove and a common sandpiper, along with dozens of crag martins. Also near the Pont du Gard was an extremely ugly escaped muscovy duck that remained in almost exactly the same location during our stay, and was approached very closely while we were kayaking.

The Circque de Navacelles, Cevennes- sadly visited all too briefly for the purpose of swimming in the superb natural rock pools near the small village. As soon as we arrived, a flock of vultures passed over, and having got out the binoculars, one turned out to be a black vulture- a great new bird for me, which has recently been reintroduced into the area, but can be extremely difficult to find. It was travelling with 12 griffon vultures and a short-toed eagles, and they quickly moved on, not to be seen again. Also seen there was a group of 20 red-billed choughs. 

Les Baux- sadly no birding done here, but the hillside village was worth a visit. My hopes of finding Bonelli's eagles as others have in the trip reports I have read, were proven to be forlorn as no raptors were seen. We didn't search for the eagle owls that nest in the area as we knew it would be virtually impossible to find them without inside knowledge of their nest sites. Crag martins and black redstarts were very common, and three jays were seen.

Total species seen: 159

Lifers: 15

Mammals: just three- rabbit, hare and beaver

Click here for a list of birds seen